You often see progressive tasting menus, but at Cyrus, you’re actually moving guests from room to room. What inspired this style of experience?
The idea was originally born from dinner in a traditional Kaiseki house in Kyoto, where we were in one beautiful room of the storied house the entire time. I thought how fun it would be to have a few unique elements to each room, so you could always experience something new.
My favorite meals are in peoples’ homes. And those usually follow the pattern of gathering on the front porch or living room for drinks and a snack, then moving to the kitchen while the host cooks, then to the dining room.
How does sense of place influence the dining experience?
I’ve had great sushi experiences in a strip mall, but when you are going out for a special night with loved ones or business associates, the perfect sense of place can improve the food and service. We are blessed with one of the only restaurants in Sonoma County in the middle of vineyards. At Cyrus, you’re sitting 10 feet above the valley floor and looking directly at the dirt that grows the best vegetables and grapes in the world. This is the place Cyrus Alexander founded in 1841, and whom we named the restaurant after. There is no better place to sample the best produce than at Cyrus over the next six months.
How much is the menu evolving?
The menu evolves at around one dish a week, depending on the time of year. For instance, as I write this, spring and summer are crashing into us so hard and there are multiple changes happening this week, but that’s not typical.
How do you create moments of connection?
We have a very unique opportunity to peel back the curtains of a high functioning kitchen and show the guests how we do it. We do this without ego or pretense. We aren’t trying to create some rarified air, we just want you to see how we do our craft—in a setting that feels like you’re in our home.
Congratulations on releasing your memoir, Culinary Leverage, earlier this year. What was your main objective in telling your story and how did you find time to write on top of such a busy schedule?
The main objective was to heal. To heal myself and possibly show a path for the industry to heal from its dysfunction. And to give people hope about not giving up when their back is against the wall.
I just made the time. A lot of it was written during the pandemic. It was a cathartic process that flowed once I got going.
Can you speak more to your creative process? Do you find similarities between writing and crafting a new dish?
They are similar in that it takes inspiration to be successful. With cooking, that can come from a smell, an ingredient, a new plate, or just a random thought. Nowadays, I take inspiration from the talented people we have at Cyrus who have a lot of great ideas. I get to be editor-in-chief and mentor the dishes to fruition. Writing needs inspiration as well.
You’ve earned a reputation for reimagining the fine dining model. In addition to experiencing an incredible meal, why should guests feel proud to support your business?
Hospitality is the act of people taking care of other people. It’s a beautiful thing. But our industry has gotten away from that—especially taking care of our own. It’s become more about stars, awards, and TV appearances rather than nourishing. At Cyrus, we strive very hard to correct that. Our team is just as important as the guests. We try to block out all of the noise regarding awards and accolades, sometimes to our financial detriment, but not to our psychological and mental well being.
What does a day off look like for you?
The ideal day off is having my girlfriend, Julie, and her dog, Pacha, in town. Slow to rise and sip coffee for an extended period of time while watching the sun coat the vines. A 2-3 mile walk/hike in the late morning. And then listening to music while we cook something for dinner or plan an excursion. Ideally, we end the evening by a fire outside looking at the amazing stars that the clear Sonoma night sky provides. And we are drinking something delicious. Could be bubbles or even a bourbon. But the idea on a day off is to heal wildly by living and loving and eating and drinking well.
