James Costello, Estate Gardener
A kitchen garden has long been part of The French Laundry’s ethos. How has it evolved over the years?
Access to the freshest vegetables, herbs, and fruit has been part and parcel of The French Laundry from the beginning. Sally and Don Schmitt (the original founders of the restaurant) kept planter beds full of flowers, veggies, and herbs in the courtyard. Chefs could step outside the kitchen door and harvest something they needed. The most significant leap in the garden came when The French Laundry purchased the 3.5-acre property across the street from the restaurant in 1999, and a couple of beds of Charentais Melons were planted. Since then, the garden has grown and evolved considerably to what it is today. Different head gardeners, such as Scotty Boggs, Tucker Taylor, and Aaron Keefer, have put their stamp on it over the years to help shape it. The renovation in 2023 is just part of the garden’s evolution into its next phase.
How important are the aesthetics of the garden?
Given our proximity to the restaurant and high visibility, we endeavor to maintain the garden at the highest level as it mirrors a very manicured place. I tell people, ‘this is not your average farm’. At this garden, we pay close attention to detail. I want to give people who come to the garden a special experience apart from a typical farm tour.
Can you tell us about the process and planning that goes into maintaining the garden?
We have an excellent team here that helps take care of the garden. Depending on the season, the needs of the garden can vary dramatically. Every week, though, we walk through the garden, prioritize the work, and spend a fair amount of time on maintenance tasks: weeding, raking, hedging, grooming roses and other perennials. Inevitably, the production needs come first, of course, so this time of year can be tricky since we’re approaching the peak of summer production while the maintenance needs are also high.
Teresa Kao, Farm Manager
What might surprise visitors on a garden tour?
What often surprises our visitors is the size and scale of our operations. The garden is larger than most people imagine, not to mention the three off-site locations at Trefethen Vineyards, Yountville Crossroads, and Silverado Trail.
The intensity of flavors in our garden will often surprise visitors on the tours. From the sweet, crisp flavor of the Mokum carrot to the floral sweetness of our Mara de Bois strawberries, the flavors are complex to describe and a delightful surprise.
The word ‘sustainability’ has, in a sense, become diluted due to overuse. What does sustainability mean to The French Laundry Culinary Garden?
Sustainability means honoring and using our resources wisely and acknowledging that our resources, such as air, water, soil, and labor, all need wise stewardship for the present and future. We have a fertility management plan to monitor and log our organic amendments to ensure we only use what is necessary. We are constantly monitoring water usage to ensure we are using just the right amount of water. We are investigating how to compost all our garden waste so that we can close the loop around our waste.
What are you working on right now?
Before the abundance of summer bursts, we harvest everything daily to keep up, such as Romano beans, haricot verts, zucchinis, pattypan and avocado squashes. We are watching the ripening of stone fruits, sour cherries, and blackberries while trellising the cucumbers, tomatoes and eggplants. Our cut flower garden is blooming with Larkspur, Delphinium, Digitalis, Nigella, and snapdragons, and we are planting dahlia tubers. We are beginning to pull our spring Brassicas, such as broccoli and cabbage, and flipping beds for another round of summer Squashes, including some experimental varieties given to us by our friends around the world (Longue de Nice from Mirazur, Cucuzza di Raspari from Robin, our Maître d’ at Per Se).
Ara Jo, Chef de Cuisine
How does the garden influence the menu? How does the menu influence the garden?
At The French Laundry, the garden is central to our process. It’s not just where we source ingredients; it’s where inspiration often begins. The daily rhythms of the garden influence what ends up on the menu, from the tiniest herb to the ripest vegetables. At the same time, the creativity of the kitchen drives what we grow. If Chef Keller is exploring a new flavor profile or concept, we’ll work with the garden team to plan specific varietals that support that vision. It’s a deeply collaborative relationship–more a dialogue than a one-way influence.
So many of us are disconnected from the food we eat. Can you speak to the importance of cultivating this relationship between garden and restaurant?
That connection is everything. At The French Laundry, the garden isn’t just an amenity, it’s a philosophy. It reminds us every day that food is the result of patience, care, and a relationship with the land. Having the garden just across the street allows us to work in real time with nature. It brings the team closer to the source of our ingredients and creates a level of respect and intentionality that you can taste in the food. For guests, it deepens the experience; they’re not just dining, they’re engaging with a living, breathing ecosystem.
What ingredient is the team most excited about right now?
Right now, we’re really excited about our Romano beans. They are incredibly versatile and full of flavor, growing beautifully with a crisp texture. Whether we’re using them in a refined, composed dish or something more rustic and expressive, they capture the essence of the season and the garden’s vitality. There’s something special about working with an ingredient that feels both humble and elegant at the same time.
Jamie Houghton, Pastry Chef
How does the garden influence the menu? How does the menu influence the garden?
The garden massively influences the menu. It’s exciting to see what we have grown and to be able to order the items to be freshly picked for the next day’s menu. Many different fruits come from the garden throughout the year, so it gives us a really varied selection of what we can create and be inspired by.
What ingredient is the pastry team most excited about right now?
Right now, the strawberries are in full swing, and we have a beautiful choice. My favorite is Mara Des Bois, which is delicate in texture and flavor. They are great for serving just as they are, even as a sorbet or coulis, as they really pack a lot of flavor. Then we also have Albion, which is a lot firmer and great for creating texture in a compote or sauce.
What inspires you?
The growing seasons inspire me the most. There are so many microclimates around the Valley that produce the same varieties at different times with different flavors. I really enjoy speaking with the garden team and local farmers to see what it is they are growing, and what will be ready and ripe next. There is something very special about being busy at work in the kitchen, then the team brings in flats of strawberries, peaches, plums, figs, and it’s all still warm from the sun. The smell of the fresh fruit arriving at the back door is pure inspiration, and I can’t help but smile when tasting the fruit.
