In Season: Spring 2020

Tarsan i Jane describes these sea creatures as, “wonderfully weird-looking yet oh-so-delicious.” But what exactly are they? Percebes, otherwise known as Goose Barnacles, are filter-feeding crustaceans, prized in Spain and Portugal for their salty, sweet flesh. Tarsan i Jane sources their goose barnacles from British Columbia. They’re quickly blanched, peeled, and served au naturel, though the team also recommends covering them with any kind of sauce you like.

“The most menacing plants are overlooked as a contributing member to foods,” says the team at MÄS. Dandelion is considered by some to be a stubborn weed, but in fact, the entire plant, including the root and leaves, are both edible and nutritious. “We collect as many dandelion flowers as we can and steep them into a tea to further ferment as kombucha.” They also created a dandelion vinegar used in a dish inspired by gargouillou, or a celebration of garden-fresh vegetables.

The team at Somebody People sources local mushrooms, including the delicious King Oyster from Denver’s Front Range Funghi. This crew of mushroom connoisseurs says, “These mushrooms are true kings in the kitchen, with similar qualities to tofu. They absorb all flavors they encounter and are appreciated in all types of dishes.” Somebody People features King Oysters as “mushies on toast” for brunch, and they’re served with lentils, pine nuts, parmesan, and pickled mustard seeds for dinner.

You know spring is in full swing when you start seeing ramps on menus all across North America. These wild onions are similar to leeks or shallots, but this cult favorite ingredient is far rarer. Ramps are only available for a few weeks out of the year, typically in early spring. At Monello Cucina, you can find them served with langoustine and chives, or on a dish composed of red prawn and Charmoula (a Moroccan condiment). If you get your hands on some ramps this season, we recommend pickling them so they last longer.

Romanesco, or broccoli romanesco, as it is sometimes called, is part of the brassica family, which includes cabbage, cauliflower, and kohlrabi. “It’s quite crunchy,” says the team at Anomaly. “It has a slightly less assertive flavor than broccoli or cauliflower.” What’s really special about this vegetable is its appearance. According to Bon Appétit, “its intricate, mathematical pattern makes it a fractal” meaning each spiral follows exactly the same logarithmic pattern. The chefs at Anomaly are pairing it with scallops or duck and blood orange.

Berlu recently created a dish with stinging nettles for their plant-based vegan tasting menu. Components include lemon sherbet, potato, and freeze-dried nettles. Stinging nettles, which grow across North America, Europe, and Asia, are versatile (like spinach) and they’re delicious when picked at the right time. According to The Guardian, “by late April, nettles are starting to become coarse and you should not eat them once they begin to form flowers.”

Down in New Orleans, it’s peak crawfish season. In fact, this season is shaping up to be one of the most promising for crawfish in nearly a decade. These freshwater crustaceans commonly referred to as “mudbugs” are a staple to Creole and Cajun cooking. At Mosquito Supper Club, you might find crawfish prepared in an étouffée (which literally means to smother) served over rice or in a crawfish bisque with stuffed crawfish heads.

“Seaweeds have seasons too,” says the team at The Clove Club. They get theirs from seaweed expert Lewis MacKenzie, who dives off the isle of Harris into the Hebridean coast’s icy waters. MacKenzie wears a wetsuit and a snorkel, venturing out at low tides with mesh bags, according to The Sunday Post. He takes only what he needs, harvesting sustainably, and making sure to place any crustaceans back into the ocean. Pictured are various seaweeds including sugar kelp and pepper dulse, available at The Clove Club until April.