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Take an international journey with the chef behind Chicago’s INDIENNE

Cover Image for Take an international journey with the chef behind Chicago’s INDIENNE
By Colleen McNally Arnett
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Born in India, Chef Sujan Sarkar originally dreamed of becoming a fashion designer before falling in love with another art form: food. He honed his culinary skills in kitchens around the globe before moving to Chicago.

 

In 2022, he opened INDIENNE—a progressive fine dining restaurant in Chicago’s hip River North neighborhood—and has made his mark by sharing the richness of his native cuisine with authenticity, creativity, and what he calls “relentless hospitality.” Get to know Sarkar in nine questions.

A native of Kolkata, you honed your culinary skills in some of London’s most intense, iconic MICHELIN-Starred kitchens before moving to Chicago. What attracted you to the Midwest?

The Midwest offered something special. Chicago, in particular, has such a vibrant food culture—people are curious, adventurous, open to new flavors, but also connected to comfort and community. That balance really spoke to me. At the same time, I saw a chance to introduce contemporary Indian fine dining at the level I’d always imagined. It felt like the perfect place to share my vision of progressive Indian cuisine with diners who I knew would not only appreciate it, but truly embrace it.

 

Left: Interior photo of INDIENNE's dining room. Right: Two small plated dishes and hands plating gold leaf with tweazers onto one dish

 

When was the catalyst moment that you decided to become a chef?

In Kolkata, food was never just about nourishment—it was culture, connection, and celebration. I actually never planned to pursue cooking professionally. My first dream was to be a fashion designer. But once I entered culinary school, something clicked. I realized food could be just as creative, expressive, and transformative as any art form. Cooking gave me the ability to tell stories, to bring people together around a table, and to turn a simple moment into something lasting. That realization has been my compass ever since. It took me from Kolkata to Delhi, Mumbai, London, Dubai, San Francisco, New York, and now Chicago, each stop adding a new layer to the journey that defines my cooking today.

 

“Food was never just about nourishment—it was culture, connection, and celebration.”

 

INDIENNE brings together Indian flavors and French technique based on your personal and professional background. What is a current dish that you feel best represents this combination?

One dish that really embodies this philosophy is our “Chicken Katli.” It takes inspiration from the traditional Indian sweet, Kaju Katli, which is cut into diamond shapes. We’ve reimagined it as a savory layered creation, with a sous-vide chicken breast, a mousse infused with cardamom, white pepper, yellow chili, and a forcemeat made from chicken thigh, cashew, and our house-made garam masala. It’s finished with shaved black truffle and served in that same diamond shape, alongside a rich Amul cheese sauce (almost like a Mornay), which is subtly enhanced with leek jus and green chili. To me, this course strikes the balance between bold Indian flavors and the restraint of French technique. It’s classic yet modern, familiar yet unexpected.

 

Hand pouring a green liquid into a bowl of a small, beautifully plated dish

 

You offer unique tasting menus to accommodate vegetarian, pescatarian, and vegan diets—a rarity among fine dining restaurants. What is the most popular option?

Our non-vegetarian menu is still the most popular, but I’m impressed by how many guests choose the vegetarian tasting. To me, this menu is a testament to the richness and versatility of Indian cuisine, with seasonal vegetables, grains, and legumes elevated to a level of complexity and refinement that always surprises diners. Our vegan menu has also become something of a conversation piece in the city, thanks to its unique flavor combinations and thoughtful presentation.

 

Diners may be familiar with your restaurants, both in Chicago and beyond. From your perspective, what role does INDIENNE play in this constellation of concepts?

INDIENNE is the flagbearer. This is where I can explore creativity at the highest level while staying true to the soul of Indian cuisine. Our other concepts, Nadu and Swadesi Café, allow me to showcase Indian food in a more casual or playful context, but INDIENNE is the stage where we push boundaries. It’s where we elevate the cuisine, challenge expectations, and show just how refined and expressive Indian dining can be.

 

Left: Scallop on ornate gold grill. Right: Pink drink in a coupe garnished with a butterfly on a twig

 

Soon after opening in 2022, INDIENNE became Chicago’s first Indian restaurant to receive a Michelin star. What are you most proud of?

What makes me proud is that the recognition goes beyond just the food—it’s about the entire experience. The team, the service, and the vision we’ve built together. For me, the star validates something I’ve always believed—that Indian cuisine absolutely belongs on the world stage right alongside the world’s finest culinary traditions.

 

What is one feeling or flavor that you hope guests remember long after the meal ends?

I want our guests to leave with a sense of wonder and discovery, like a memory of spice layered with subtlety, or complexity that intrigues rather than overwhelms. But more than anything, I want them to walk away with a feeling of joy and warmth from the flavors that linger, reminding them of the experience long after the meal is done.

 

Two circular plated dishes with vibrant colors

 

Your brother, Pujan Sarkar, is also a talented chef, and together, you recently opened TIYA, a New Indian restaurant in San Francisco. How does your relationship inspire you to innovate and evolve?

Working with Pujan has been incredibly motivating and inspiring—we are always challenging each other to think bigger, to experiment, and to keep evolving. Pujan lives in SF, and he’s very connected to the small farms and local community. For me, my focus remains on shaping the broader “New Indian” food culture across America and beyond. That balance of perspectives, along with the trust and understanding we have with each other, gives us the freedom to take creative risks. It allows us to innovate while staying true to Indian culinary traditions, which fuels innovation in both of our kitchens.

 

How do you enjoy spending a day off in Chicago?

On my days off, I like exploring the city at a slower pace, wandering through different neighborhoods, visiting local markets, or trying new spots to eat. I also love cooking at home with family and friends. It’s a way to reconnect with the flavors I grew up with and experiment in a more relaxed way.

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