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At San Francisco’s Sons & Daughters, Chef Harrison Cheney gets creative with New Nordic cuisine

Cover Image for At San Francisco’s Sons & Daughters, Chef Harrison Cheney gets creative with New Nordic cuisine
By Colleen McNally Arnett
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When English expat Harrison Cheney took the helm of San Francisco’s Sons & Daughters in 2023 as the executive chef and owner, he brought a novel approach to Nordic food honed from his time in Sweden, plus an artistry learned from his mother, a talented ceramicist. (That, and a die-hard fandom for Chelsea football.) Within a couple of years, Cheney quickly led the restaurant to rack up awards and MICHELIN stars, and soon, Sons & Daughters will relocate to a larger space to better serve more guests. We caught up with Cheney to learn more about where he finds creative inspiration and what’s in store for Sons & Daughters’ new home.

After growing up and launching your career in London, what attracted you to New Nordic cuisine?

I traveled to Copenhagen for a long weekend with a good friend of mine. I dined at several New Nordic restaurants, and I was instantly inspired. I fell in love with the focus on locality, community, and, of course, the acidity!

Sons & Daughters’ tasting menu is an innovative interpretation of Nordic food traditions with seasonal ingredients intentionally sourced from California’s Bay Area. What is the feeling or flavor that you hope guests still remember long after the meal ends?

I like to think that we have exciting and unique flavor combinations, but that is definitely not something we do intentionally. I create dishes with flavors that I enjoy eating and things that naturally pair well together, in my opinion at least. Sometimes I am told even though it might be a flavor combination that a guest has never had before, it feels nostalgic—which I personally think is exciting!

I hope that guests will remember our intentionality, our story, and the producers we showcase.

 

Photograph of three elegantly plated dishes from the summer menu at Sons & Daughters

 

You credit your mother, a talented ceramicist who hand-makes some of your restaurant’s dishes, for inspiring and encouraging your own creativity and artistic eye. What is one of the lessons she taught you that stays with you today?

My mum always had a very clear and unique style. She really showed her personality with the pieces that she created, and I found that so inspiring—that you can be yourself and create something like no one else with so much confidence.

So, to now serve our three opening bites on pieces that we collaborated on is extremely special to me, and I Iove to talk about it with our guests.

Since joining the team at Sons & Daughters in 2023, you’ve led the restaurant to earn two MICHELIN stars, plus a Green Star for Gastronomy & Sustainability, among other impressive accolades. What are you most proud of, and why?

Of course, I was super proud of our Green Star; being acknowledged for our focus on sustainability was very rewarding. Two stars was surreal, and that night I will remember for the rest of my life.

But the thing I am most proud of is having a team that is truly invested in my vision. I feel blessed to have had such a clear idea of which direction I wanted to take Sons & Daughters right from the start, and to have a team that believes in me and trusts me with their careers and time is something I will never take for granted.

 

Hand spooning foam onto plate with a slice of meat, red sauce, and herbs

 

In 2023, the MICHELIN Guide also awarded you the Young Chef Award. What advice would you give young aspiring chefs today who are just entering the industry?

Choose a chef that you want to work for, not just food that you think looks cool, but someone that you respect for their management style. Dedicate yourself to their vision and be a sponge, learn, ask questions, don’t expect all of the education to be handed to you! Be hungry, be full of integrity, but most importantly, enjoy your cooking.

Also, accept that sometimes you can make a wrong decision. You might take a job that seems perfect, but it doesn’t turn out that way, and that is fine. It is a tough industry, but an incredible one. All of the sacrifices should be worth it.

Use the industry to give you opportunities to travel the world. Working in other countries was a scary decision to make, but one of the best decisions I have ever made.

Sons & Daughters recently announced plans to relocate to a bigger space in the Mission District. What excites you most about the new location?

Being able to really showcase my personality throughout the whole restaurant’s design. I think it is already clear throughout our experience, but our current restaurant was decorated prior to my arrival, and I am very excited for everything to be intentionally selected and curated for this project. And of course, a bigger kitchen. We currently work in a shoebox.

Nordic culture has a strong coffee habit, and Sons & Daughter is beloved for its after-dinner, tableside siphon coffee brewing service for guests. If you’re enjoying the Swedish tradition of “fika,” what is your cup of choice?

I have honestly never had a cup of coffee or tea in my life. I have had a sip of both, but they just aren’t for me. I would choose kombucha!

 

Four elegantly plated dishes on wooden plateware

 

Beyond “fika” breaks, in what ways do you recharge when you’re not in the kitchen?

I love to listen to music. My wife bought me a vinyl player last year for my birthday, so I have been excited to build my collection. I love to walk around the city with my girls and spend time close to the water, and most importantly, spend time at home. Rent in San Francisco is extremely expensive, and I spend very little time at home, so a cozy Sunday evening is always appreciated.

You have lived around the world, from London to Stockholm to San Francisco. What are the things you can’t live without that make a city feel like home to you?

An apartment that feels like home. For far too long, I rented a bedroom with someone else’s furniture and somewhere I don’t feel comfortable, but when I moved back to San Francisco, I made sure that changed. For the longest time, I had my personal belongings spread between different friends’ and families’ homes, but to now have everything in one place means a lot to me.

If you’re hosting out-of-town guests, where else would you recommend they see, do, or eat while visiting San Francisco?

The scenery in the city is so diverse. I think it is really cool to walk from one neighborhood to the next and see how they change. I am not a huge baseball fan, but I think Oracle Park is super impressive and relaxing as the sun sets over the bay on a Sunday evening.

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